When it rains in Lecce, eat pasta … and cheese

Life is a combination of magic and pasta.

– Federico Fellini

When Robie and I set out from Albania to enjoy a week-long getaway in Italy, we were looking forward to exploring the baroque architecture of Lecce in the southern region of Puglia. But when March showers left us taking grey, overcast pictures of the Piazza del Duomo and rain-obscured shots of the Basilica di Santa Croce, we decided to turn our outdoor sightseeing trip into an indoor culinary tour – one that celebrated Puglia’s cuisine and filled our phones with drool-worthy photos.

Below is a gallery of food from our trip to Lecce. But be warned. This post will induce cravings for thinly sliced meats, creamy cheese and all things pasta.

Buon Appetito!

It’s no secret that Robie and I love cheese. But when we learned that burrata, one of our favorite Italian cheeses, originated in Puglia we couldn’t get enough!

A soft, fresh, cow’s milk cheese, burrata has a unique texture characterized by a thin outer layer of mozzarella that – once ruptured – bursts with soft, oozy curds. In fact, the word burrata means buttered or churned in Italian, a nod to the cheese’s rich, creamy texture and delicious, delicate flavor.

Baked burrata wrapped in prosciutto, drizzled with aged balsamic vinegar
A cheesey lunch with soft, creamy bleu cheese and toast
Burrata salad with anchovies, a creamy, savory combination
Burrata on toast topped with artichoke hearts, anchovies and lemon zest

In Puglia, carpaccio is a regional specialty that many restaurants offer at the start of a meal. Along with the traditional plate of thinly sliced beef, we saw this classic made with scorpionfish as well as horse meat.

Traditional carpaccio
This meat and cheese board made a satisfying lunch
Carpaccio de cavallino

And this being Italy, Robie and I indulged in lots of pasta!

Orecchiette comes from Puglia, the concave shape meaning “little ears” in Italian. Though its origins are shrouded in mystery, one theory suggests orecchiette dates to Roman times. In Puglia the pasta is loved for how it holds onto thick sauces like tomato and meatballs or cime di rapa (broccoli rabe), prized for its lightly bitter, peppery flavor.

Orecchiette in tomato sauce with meatballs
 
Pasta carbonara
Orecchiette cime di rapa
Mushroom pasta

Another dish combined the best of both worlds – pasta and burrata. Check out this little gem featuring ziti pasta with subtle pistachio pesto, chunks of raw tuna fresh from the sea, and a whole burrata ball that once opened, melted into a creamy sauce.

Having a little pasta with our cheese!

Of course, when Friday night rolled around, we had plenty of options in Lecce, enjoying our weekly pizza tradition at a place called Storico.

Storico’s pizza with ham, bacon and yellow tomato puree

But the best thing we ate in Lecce came from a restaurant named 00 for the flour usually found in pasta. In this recipe it’s used to make focaccia with tomato and rosemary. Then the warm, freshly baked bread is covered with sliced prosciutto, thick dollops of burrata and a sprinkling of dried figs and walnuts.

On a drizzly afternoon in southern Italy, this sweet, salty and creamy combination tasted like a mouthful of sunshine. 🌞

A meal of loaded focaccia at 00 in Lecce, the best thing we ate!

Molto delizioso!

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Thanks for dropping by our little corner of the internet. If this post brought sunshine to a dreary day, taught you something new or got you thinking if these two can make a roving retirement work, why can’t I?, a like is much appreciated. And if you’re feeling particularly adventurous, hitting subscribe is like getting a front row seat to see what we’re up to and where we’re going next. Plus, you’ll get first crack at our “Where are you now?” contests and won’t miss the ongoing misadventures of Willie Dare, Perpetual Alien.

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-Reid & Robie


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