Everyone’s destination is the same; only the paths are different. – Sushmita Sen Hendaye, France – Saturday, June 11, 1983 A woman’s voice pierced the early morning fog crying, “Bordeaux?” in a high-pitched shriek. Nothing about the morning had gone right. Awakened as the train pulled into the station, our trio scrambled to gather bags … More The longest 500 hundred yards
Macedonia, of course, is part of Greece, yet I have decided to classify it apart. – Strabo Rounding out our tour of the southwestern Balkans, Robie and I visited North Macedonia in July. Though the country lies on Albania’s eastern border wedged between Bulgaria, Greece, Serbia and Kosovo, no one we met had been to … More North Macedonia: the overlooked Balkan state
I would rather own little and see the world than own the world and see little of it. – Madhu Shetty You’re standing amid the ruins of an ancient fortress where an important battle was fought in 1536. The site, high atop a hill, overlooks a former capital founded in the 13th century. Though the … More Where are you now?
Autumn is a second spring where every leaf becomes a flower. – Albert Camus Timing is everything, and that’s especially true for travel. When prices plummeted in the wake of 9/11, Robie and I snagged a great deal on a cruise up the Nile. After the fall of the Berlin Wall, we wandered around Prague … More Is there an off-season on the Camino?
The part of the Adriatic Coast belonging to Montenegro is the purest part of the Mediterranean. – Jacques Cousteau In April Robie and I visited the tiny, mountainous country of Montenegro. We stayed in the port city of Kotor and reveled in the towering cliffs that plunged dramatically into the bay, enjoyed a boat trip … More Green doors (and cats) of Kotor, Montenegro
In my experience, the most important decisions tested my courage far more than my intelligence. – Ben Horowitz Recently Robie and I were forced to reevaluate our plans. The test came from an unlikely source. When we met Alec and Angela at The Black Marlin in Sarandё, we had no inkling of the trouble they’d … More A test of our roving retirement
The next great European war will probably come out of some damned fool thing in the Balkans. – Otto von Bismarck If you’ve followed my travel book reviews so far, you may have noticed something disturbing. One reader did. After posting the last review of Peter Mayle’s Toujours Provence, I received a note asking why … More Albania: A Narrative of Recent Travels
Life is a combination of magic and pasta. – Federico Fellini When Robie and I set out from Albania to enjoy a week-long getaway in Italy, we were looking forward to exploring the baroque architecture of Lecce in the southern region of Puglia. But when March showers left us taking grey, overcast pictures of the … More When it rains in Lecce, eat pasta … and cheese
A touron is one-part eager tourist and one-part well-meaning moron. – Kelsey Timmerman Robie and I are aware of our position. It’s hard not to be. We don’t speak the language, don’t dress like locals, walk too fast, have difficulty figuring out change in the native currency and linger at waterfront cafés during work hours. … More Part of the problem
It was a strange city, and seemed to have been cast up in the valley one winter’s night like some prehistoric creature that was now clawing its way up the mountainside. – Chronicle of Stone by Ismail Kadare, born in Gjirokastër, 1936 While staying in one country for seven months seems counterproductive to our mission to … More Gallery of Gjirokastër, Albania
Reid & Robie 