Food is our common ground, a universal experience.
– James Beard
In Sarandё Robie and I had time to explore the city’s many hangouts.
Arriving in January we found few dining options open in the off season. Come March places that had been closed since the holidays began welcoming customers as more restaurants reopened across the city each week during spring. By July Sarandё was in full swing with an array of cafés, bars, restaurants and ice cream shops on every corner. But with seasonal operators targeting tourists with mediocre fare, how do you choose a decent meal in this ever-expanding city?
After seven months, we sat in many of the cafés, ate in more than our fair share of restaurants and checked out the choicest views to provide this tried-and-true list of the best places to eat and drink in Sarandё. Because while the high-traffic areas may be convenient, it pays to know the places that stay open year-round, use quality ingredients, have a local following and friendly staff.
Our list of greatest hits will clear through the clutter and show you where to spend your hard-earned cash with pro tips to make the most of your dining experience. So, for anyone visiting Sarandё, consider this your first course to a great meal. And since no list of bars, restaurants and cafés would be complete without a few places to avoid, we point out the biggest tourist traps that aren’t worth your time or your money.
Top restaurants
Our list of go-to restaurants includes everything from seafood to Greek, burgers to traditional fare and spans the city from the promenade to Kodrra so no matter which part of town you stay in, we’ve got you covered.
All recommendations are open year-round unless otherwise noted.
Guma Restaurant
Located on the promenade with stunning views of the boardwalk and bay, recently renovated Guma is a gem. Open year-round, this family-run restaurant is unpretentious despite the white linens, specializing in a range of cuisines from traditional to pasta, seafood and pizza. And since they make the best crust in town, they’ll happily sell you dough for making pizza at home.
Armando, the owner lives in Kodrra with his family, many of whom work in the restaurant including his daughter, son-in-law and granddaughter. But it was Mario who won us over with his friendly attitude and gracious manner.
Like many restaurants in Sarandё Guma’s open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. So, come for the view or house wine, and linger at the nicest place with the best staff on the promenade.
Pro tip: Order the fried cheese appetizer. It comes in an individual cast iron pan so if you don’t get around to eating it right away, the cheese still stays hot and gooey.
Taverna Laberia
Assorted meat platter and whole fish from Taverna Laberia
Our first night in Sarandё Robie and I stumbled into Taverna Laberia, one of the few restaurants in Kodrra open during the off season. With a menu heavy on grilled meats, they have everything from lamb to pork, veal and seafood.
The shellfish come with shells on, and the cuts of meat include bones because that’s the way they’re butchered in Albania. But if you prefer your meat boneless, we suggest ordering the skewers which are cleaned, cubed and come in every variety. The salads and sides are delicious and big enough to feed four. Or you can take the leftovers for a lovely lunch the following day.
After dozens of visits to Taverna Laberia, we’ve tried nearly every dish on their extensive menu and can truly recommend it all. The only letdown are the French fries. Cooked in oil that’s not hot enough to crisp the potatoes, they come to the table limp and soggy. But by topping them with grilled fish and meat, the fries soak up the tasty resting juices and typically get devoured anyway.
In the spring we watched Taverna Laberia expand its patio into the unfinished building next door, more than doubling its capacity. But the service never faltered. While the place is always packed during season, this restaurant has the friendliest staff in town with people like Kristiana making every meal an unforgettable experience.
Pro tip: During the summer, the city’s spotty Wi-Fi means the restaurant only takes cash with an ATM conveniently located across the street. Yet despite the lingering “cash only” signs, in winter, Taverna Laberia accepts credit cards.
Open year-round serving breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Taverna Kapiteni
Calamari and whole fish at Taverna Kapiteni
The best value in Sarandё, Taverna Kapiteni is the place to go for great seafood. Located at the roundabout across from Planet Market in Kodrra, the restaurant doesn’t have much in the way of a view, but it’s filled with locals in the off season – a sure sign that something good’s happening in the kitchen.
The owner has a fish shop nearby but that doesn’t mean every dish is available if the catch didn’t make it on the boat. It does mean that by cutting out the middleman, Taverna Kapiteni offers a delicious meal for less, like our large salad, cheese appetizer, whole fish, calamari and wine that came in under €34, a price that’s hard to beat anywhere in Sarandё.
Pro tip: There are three dining areas: the outside patio artfully sectioned off with climbing vines and trees, the inside patio that doubles as the smoking section in winter, and the main dining room. Choose whichever space feels right and order the baked cheese appetizer. It comes wrapped in foil with sliced tomatoes on top and bottom adding sweet and smokey flavors to the melted cheese.
Open year-round, Taverna Kapiteni serves only coffee in the morning until the kitchen opens for lunch and dinner.
Nomad Burgers & Steaks
When you’ve had your fill of grilled meat and seafood in Sarandё, head to Nomad Burgers & Steaks. Located near the main cathedral a block off the waterfront, Nomad Burgers is the place to go when you’re craving the taste of home. Their thick juicy burgers made with beef, chicken or mushrooms feature names like Fat Boy, Big Mama and Lord of the Rings. And they come paired with the best potatoes in town, craggy chunks of spud boiled then fried until crisp on the outside and fluffy on the inside. While Nomad’s not a cheap burger joint, they serve the best hamburgers we’ve tasted in a long time.
Pro tip: All plates come with a side of ketchup for your fries. If you prefer to dip your spuds in mayonnaise, ask for the garlic aioli.
Open year-round for lunch and dinner.
Mendra
Heavily influenced by its neighbors, Sarandё is filled with restaurants offering Greek and Italian cuisine. But Mendra on Kodrra’s middle road is unapologetically Albanian. Their small menu offers traditional dishes like phyllo pies stuffed with leeks and cheese, spicy meatballs, watermelon salad and tave kosi, an Albanian casserole made with lamb and rice that’s baked in a creamy yogurt sauce.
Pro tip: Mendra is only open during season. And because they only serve dinner, get there early to grab a seat on the patio for an intimate experience that feels like dining in your own private garden.
Lezeti Restaurant
Another stand-out on the promenade, this halal restaurant is part of a hotel offering cafeteria-style dining focused on regional and Albanian cuisines made from traditional recipes handed down through generations. Their Greek moussaka, Italian lasagna, and Albanian tave kosi brimming with lamb, are all outstanding. And with fewer staff, these tasty, homey dishes are less expensive than you’ll find elsewhere.
Pro tip: Their light yet hearty dauphinoise potatoes are to die for, so if you see wedges of layered potatoes being offered, grab a piece. You won’t be disappointed. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner during season.
Taverna Ulson
This restaurant, tucked into the backside of Kodrra across from the navy port, offers the cheapest breakfast in town. For €3 you get a plate with two fried eggs, cheese, olives, a small tomato and cucumbers salad, toast and tea. While not open year-round, Taverna Ulson reopens in April to serve lunch and dinner as well, but we can only vouch for their amazing breakfast deal.
Pro tip: Don’t ask for your bread to be toasted. In Albania, “toast” is a grilled ham and cheese sandwich often served as a breakfast on the go. Instead, request that your bread be “hot” and they’ll happily grill it for you.
More restaurant recommendations
On the high road above the port Taverna Rrapo is a real crowd pleaser serving seafood, traditional Greek and Albanian cuisine as well as grilled meats. Plus, their Rrapo salad is to die for. Chunks of sweet plums, strawberries and avocado mixed with lettuce and cheese is a great starter dish to share or healthy lunch for one.
Just down the promenade from Guma Republik Grill is built around the remains of the old stone wall that was part of a Roman trading post. They offer pizzas, kebabs and salads as well as draft beer – a rarity around town until summer. And with Marko as your server, you’re in good hands. Closed in winter, Republik Grill and the adjoining hotel reopen in March serving breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Like Lezeti Restaurant, Taste of Tradition in Kodrra is self-service. And while the dining room lacks ambiance, these delicious meals hit the spot for an easy take-away meal to enjoy at home. Offering a variety of meats and vegetables, they serve breakfast, lunch and dinner year-round.
With no shortage of fish restaurants in Sarandё Taverna Fish Time located around the corner from the fresh food market near the promenade, stands out for their stuffed squid and whole, fried haddock while Marini, on the same block as Nomad Burgers, is a favorite Sunday brunch spot for the expat community. But if you need a place to watch your favorite soccer team then head to Taverna Joni in Kodrra where Bernardo, the owner and former pro footballer welcomes anyone who loves the sport as much as he does.
The restaurants we suggest you avoid
Lekuresi Castle
The medieval castle built by Suleiman the Magnificent in the 16th century is worth a visit just for the view. On a peak overlooking Sarandё Bay it offers panoramic vistas of the city, the Ionian Sea and Corfu in the distance. With a three-tiered terrace, the castle offers fine dining, a pizza restaurant, and one level just for relishing the view with a drink. Unfortunately, we don’t recommend any of them. The food and service are notoriously poor with high prices, rude waiters and music that’s too loud for conversation.
Prot tip: Fortunately, access to the castle grounds is free so you can still wander around and take pictures. Because the view is undeniable.
Black Marlin
There’s nothing wrong with this sleek, modern restaurant across from Spar grocery store in Kodrra. Open seasonally beginning in March, their patio is beautiful but be forewarned: you’re paying extra for the posh furnishings.
Taverna Fish Filipi
Like Taverna Kapiteni, the owners here run the fish market next door so their seafood is always fresh, but the food can be spotty with servers who ask for tips – a tactic that’s as rare as it is rude in Albania. And while the restaurant is often packed, the tables are filled with tour groups from Eastern Europe.
Top cafés
Albania, like Greece and Italy, is known for its coffee culture. Grab a seat on the patio, order a drink and sit all day. No one will ask you to leave. Ever.
Limani
The best-known place in town, Limani sits on an old concrete pier jutting out in the bay on the promenade. During season, a restaurant operates on one end and a nighttime bar on the other, but the café tables along the waterfront serve coffee, cakes and cold beverages year-round allowing patrons to enjoy the sea breeze. And despite its prime location Limani’s prices are less than you might pay at swankier cafés with less enticing views.
Pro tip: Try the trileçe cake. Based on the traditional Mexican tres leches cake, this light sponge cake soaked in three different milks gets topped with whipped cream and caramel sauce. What’s not to love?
SOS Bar
Located in the heart of Sarandё one block off the promenade and across the street from the archaeological ruins, SOS Bar is the place to people watch. Locals and tourists alike wander past in droves, and the busy three-way intersection is sure to provide entertainment. Since SOS Bar sits directly behind the bus stop to Butrint National Park, come early, grab a coffee then catch the bus to the renowned UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Pro tip: In Albania an iced coffee is called a freddo. So, to get an icy version of your favorite cup of joe, just put the word “freddo” in front of it.
Rivari
Located a few paces from where the buses leave for Tirana, Rivari is a simple coffee stand. But since the owner includes a small bottle of water with every purchase, it’s the perfect place to get your caffeine fix and water to keep hydrated on the long bus ride.
City Spot
When Robie’s favorite waiter at SOS Bar left to work at City Spot in Kodrra, it soon became his primary hangout. Not only was it closer, the tables on the sidewalk had a crosswind to keep him cool and a vantage that allowed him watch tourists as well as the crazy drivers attempting to go the wrong way down the street.
The café to avoid
Hataja Pub
It’s a familiar story: quaint coffeehouse in a prime location gets remodeled and prices skyrocket. At Hataja Pub across from the ferry port, this once-favorite café tripled their prices. While the staff’s friendly, with City Spot just down the street it’s hard to justify paying more.
Top bars
With no shortage of places to grab a cold drink, we honed in on the places you’ll want to kick back for an afternoon tipple or enjoy a special evening out.
Elvis Bar
During the day, Elvis Bar’s patio is a nice place to hang out and enjoy the boats in the harbor as well as watch people wandering along the promenade. On Saturday nights, this little joint offers a live performance by the owner’s Elvis-impersonator son.
Pro tip: During season it can be hard to get a seat for the show, so come early and grab a spot on the promenade wall and enjoy the performance for free!
Open year-round with reduced hours in winter when it closes between 2 and 6 p.m.
Bar Rei
Next door to Elvis Bar is the rooftop patio Bar Rei. And because the view is amazing, we expected the prices to come with a surcharge. While the cocktails can be pricey, the beers aren’t. And they’re served ice cold – something that’s hard to find on hot summer days in Sarandё.
Kristiano
While Kristiano is a full-service restaurant, Robie and I only stopped in because it’s the furthest point on the promenade and their deck over the water is a great place to enjoy the view. Plus, the location’s great for watching sunset.
Open year-round.
Bars to avoid
Buzz Bar
It’s a sad tale. The Australian woman who bought Buzz Bar thought she had a partner to help carry the load. While she works hard at enticing new customers from the ever-growing expat community, she’s known for overcharging. After all, it shouldn’t cost €10 for two tacos, should it?
Open year-round from 3 p.m. to 1 a.m. with a free book exchange, Buzz Bar is closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
American Bar
This spot on a busy intersection in Kodrra has it all: a nice patio, burgers and wings, pool tables and plenty of TVs to watch your favorite sporting events. But in Sarandё where every waiter is friendly, the staff’s lack of hospitality stands out. And with several good alternatives around the corner, we find it hard to recommend.
Our top bakeries and sweet shops
To round out our list of favorite places in Sarandё we focused on the small things in life – like bread, pastries and ice cream.
Peta Jon
Cheese pastry and spinach pie from Peta Jon
You know a place is good when locals flock to it, and once you make it through the line that spills out the front door, Peta Jon’s pastries don’t disappoint. With savory phyllo stuffed with ham and cheese, chicken and rice, meat or spinach, there’s always something new and tasty to try. Located across from the ferry terminal.
Pro tip: For the best selection, arrive before noon. Because once they sell out, Peta Jon closes for the day.
Mr. Turi
For a heartier pastry with bread instead of phyllo or puff pastry head to Mr. Turi’s near the bus station where the namesake owner makes Georgian cheese boats, sausage buns and two kinds of egg pastries, one with whole hard-boiled eggs and the other with fried eggs.
Atlas Furra Kosta
Unlike many places around town, the bakery at the top of the stairs on the high road in Kodrra specializes in nothing but bread (and the occasional cookie). This attention to a single product keeps them focused and explains why they make the best bread in Sarandё.
Baci a Tutti
Located at the top of the stairs leading from the promenade into Kodrra, Baci a Tutti reopens every April to serve pastries and sweets. But during season this hotspot is the busiest ice cream stand around.
Pro tip: Want more out of your ice cream? Skip the expensive Dubai chocolate and head to the soft serve machine where you’ll get twice as much ice cream for €1.
That’s our list of recommendations for Sarandё. Let us know if we missed your favorite haunt.
And remember, the restaurant business is tough everywhere, but in seasonal Sarandё restaurants change names, menus get altered, operating hours vary, and places come and go with surprising frequency. It’s the ones that stick around that are worth it. Because they don’t just cater to tourists. They’re in business thanks to a lot of hard work and a loyal following from local diners who appreciate them.