Reid & Robie

I tried visiting Albania, But I couldn’t find it on the map.

– Oscar Wilde

The best thing about traveling around Europe is the rail system. It’s fast, scenic, affordable and easy. Unfortunately, it doesn’t extend into the Balkans.

Except for a few rail lines in the north of the peninsula and sporadic connections in Greece, the best way to get around the region is to set out on the road. While some people hire a car, Robie and I preferred traveling with locals and taking the bus. But navigating the system wasn’t always straightforward. So here are our hot tips for seeing the Balkans by bus.

1. For schedules and itineraries, go to the bus station

To start, online information is limited, outdated and sometimes just wrong. While Rome2Rio does a good job on busier routes, less-frequented itineraries require in-person research, and the best place to get it is at the bus station.

When arriving in town take a few moments to get acquainted with the ticket agents at the station. They know the schedules, travel times and which routes operate on particular days – especially in off season. And they’re happy to jot down the information for you. Plus, if you know when you’re leaving, go ahead and buy a ticket. It’ll save time later, and if they assign seats you’ll have first pick and more seating options (see Tip #2 for more details).

Finally, since most online operators charge a fee for booking on their platform buying a ticket in person saves money.

2. Choose your seat assignment

Depending on the destination and season, buses on the most popular routes assign seats. This is particularly important during summer when the sun heats a vehicle like a can of sardines over hot coals, and a seat by the window or aisle can make the difference between a comfortable ride and a miserable, sweat-drenched slog.

When buying tickets study the direction and think about the time of day you’ll be traveling. Then decide if it’s better to sit in morning sun or cool afternoon shade. Even if the route doesn’t have seat assignments knowing which side is best will make choosing your own place easier. But get your tickets early because waiting until the day of departure means the best seats will gone.

3. Get to the bus depot early and watch the locals

Most buses originating from your departure city will be available to board 30 minutes prior and since locals know the best spots follow their lead. Plus, we like to double check that our seats have a curtain for the window and two working overhead fans so by arriving early we have time to check out the accommodations and change seats before others board.

4. Be prepared to pay for your bags

On many buses bags in the hold are included in the price of a ticket but on some international routes a fee is paid directly to the driver or attendant, typically €2 a bag. Even if you don’t like it we recommend paying or you could be like the woman who refused to pony up and watched as the attendant threw her bag across the depot.

5. Be flexible at border crossings

Every country’s different. And many countries in the southern Balkans aren’t part of the EU so be prepared for anything.

From Albania to Montenegro passengers filed off the bus to queue at the official’s drive-thru window. On the return an Albanian border agent boarded the bus and processed us in our seats. Between Albania and North Macedonia passengers passed their passports forward so the driver could take them in bulk to the border office. When finished they were handed back like your grammar school homework with passengers in front taking their papers and passing the rest behind.

6. Every rest stop is different

Most drivers schedule stops every 2½ hours for the comfort of their passengers. Sometimes this is a simple roadside kiosk selling fresh water, beer and snacks with “facilities” in the woods. Other times you’ll debus at a fancy 24-hour rest stop complete with large bathroom, a sit-down restaurant, grab & go food options and a grocery store. While most drivers tell you there’s no eating on the bus, everyone does it and there’s little they can do to stop it.

Timing also varies. Most drivers will say they’re stopping for 15 minutes, but time is subjective in the Balkans so a rest stop can be 10 minutes or half an hour. But be smart about it. Starving? Grab something to eat. Need to use the bathroom? Be first in line. Because you never know. While one driver graciously made a special stop for a millennial Scandinavian couple needing an unscheduled pit stop not everyone’s so accommodating. 

A note about bathrooms: In the Balkans toilet facilities vary greatly. In larger stops restrooms look like any major U.S. airport but in Montenegro there’s often a fee (usually €0.50) or the choice between sit down toilet (with a charge) or floor toilets (free). And in some small towns, only the squatting variety are available for ladies. Finally, since the infrastructure is poor throughout the region, all restrooms require you to throw your used toilet paper in the trash not the toilet.

7. Take reassignments in stride

Robie once read a Facebook post on an Albanian travel group from a woman seeking help after being “thrown off the bus outside Vlorё.” Fortunately, the situation wasn’t as dire as it seemed, but the miscommunication was understandable. While the bus she was on went “by” Vlorё, it didn’t go into town. Instead, it stopped 10 miles away at the roundabout heading into the city. And since that’s where all buses pass on their way to Vlorё, the driver let her off to catch the next one.

In Prizren we were deposited 5½ kilometers from the main bus station and told to take a cab to town while on a bus from Tirana’s airport to the domestic bus terminal we were dropped on the side of the highway and forced to make our way across eight lanes of busy traffic.

Traveling from Ohrid Robie and I bought tickets for a bus to Sarandё with a stop in Vlorё. But when the driver realized we were the only passengers going to Sarandё he radioed the buses operating the Tirana-to-Sarandё route and dropped us at a rest stop outside Vlorё, leaving us to pick up a bus to Sarandё half an hour later and giving us the cash to pay for it.

8. Be considerate of fellow passengers

You may have hit the jackpot with a whole row to yourself when the bus leaves the depot but be warned. Albanians in outlying areas use the system too, flagging down buses along the route, and if there’s room (and even if there isn’t), the driver will stop and let them on. Plus, there’s that tricky game of reassigning passengers enroute (see Tip #7 above). So even if you snuck your backpack on and have it in the seat next to you be prepared to put it under your feet as the bus fills and other passengers need a place to sit. Don’t be rude or angry. Just smile and welcome them aboard. Because if you absolutely have to have a seat for your backpack, then purchase two tickets.

9. Don’t make plans based on the bus company’s estimated arrival time

Tunnels under construction, delays at border crossings, road closures for high-level meetings between European prime ministers, double parked cars blocking the street, and locals getting on and off at unscheduled stops add up over the course of a four-hour trip. So be prepared to arrive late. And when booking accommodations at your destination include a note explaining you’re coming by bus so the hosts know to be flexible. Because in our 7 months of traveling around the Balkans not once did our bus arrive on schedule. 

10. For access to the southwestern Balkans, base yourself in Tirana

The capital of Albania has a lot to offer. Stand in the center of Skanderbeg Square and marvel at the immense plaza around you. Visit Et’hem Bej mosque and climb the rickety stairs of the Old Clock Tower for a view of the city. Explore Albania’s secret police under the communist regime in the House of Leaves Museum and see the old walls of Tirana Castle before enjoying lunch at a nearby restaurant. Take a picnic to Tirana Lake Park and window shop in the Old Bazaar. Then take advantage of Tirana’s central location to make trips around the Balkans.

• Durres, Albania – 1 hour
• Vlorё, Albania – 2 hours
• Prizren, Kosovo – 2 ½ hours
• Ohrid, North Macedonia – 2 ½ hours
• Gjirokastër, Albania – 3 hours
• Sarandё, Albania – 4 hours
• Kotor, Montenegro – 4 ½ hours

We hope these tips and tricks make it a little easier to explore the southwestern Balkans because train travel is not an option there.