Reid & Robie

Meals make the society, hold the fabric together in lots of ways that are charming, interesting and intoxicating.

– Anthony Bourdain

Eating out in Europe can feel overwhelming. Where to sit when no one’s around to show you to a table? Is it better to order appetizers first and the main course later? And where, oh where, is my waiter?

With so many cultural nuances, Reid & Robie are here to demystify the European dining experience. After more than two years eating in humble Greek tavernas, Turkish pideci, Italian trattorias, Albanian zgara, Sicilian pizzerias, Montenegrin konobas, French bistros, Kosovan kullas, Spanish tapas bars, North Macedonian kafani, Portuguese tascas, Maltese kcinas and pubs across England, Ireland and Scotland, we’ve eaten in our share of restaurants. Now we’re answering your most pressing questions about dining out on the Continent.

With our insights you’ll enjoy the meal, not worry about whether you’re doing it wrong. You’ll know how to find the right place to sit, order and ask for the check. We cover what to tip and the best way to pay because eating out is one of the highlights of a European vacation, not a dreaded, perplexing exchange.

So, relax. Then sit back and relish this much-loved pastime.

What are the hours of operation?

When you’re hungry, knowing what kinds of food are available becomes increasingly imperative since not all cultures share similar mealtimes. While limited kitchen operations tend to be less of an issue in tourist hotspots, venture away from the big cities and you might find it’s a long wait before dinner after skipping lunch.

Spain is the classic example. Desayuno (breakfast) is served from 7-9 a.m., comida (lunch) from 2-4 p.m. while cena (dinner) doesn’t start until 9 p.m. or later. Fortunately, Spaniards have “in between” meals including almuerzo, a mid-morning snack and merienda, a late afternoon tapa break so there’s always something to nibble on. But outside regular mealtimes, kitchens largely go unstaffed. Wander into any bar in Spain at 5 p.m. hoping for an early dinner and you’ll be staring at a handful of room temperature tapas, a slice of a Spanish tortilla or a couple of sandwiches leftover from the lunch rush.

Sundays are another trying time since across Europe it’s when stores close and families gather. So be forewarned, many restaurants only operate a few hours on Sunday – if they open at all.

Do I need a reservation?

Unless you’re planning to dine at Michelin-starred restaurants, few places require reservations. If the first bistro is packed, there’s always room at the next one. Occasionally you may wander into a humble-looking place popular with locals. Only then might the staff inquire if you have a table reserved.

At our favorites pizza restaurant in Nîmes, Fridays were so popular they rarely had space for walk-ins. Fortunately, we arrived early the first night to find a two-top the hostess described as available until 9 p.m. After that it was reserved for other guests. “Could we dine in an hour and a half?” We could.

Across Europe it’s impolite to rush guests. Diners linger over meals and order coffee hours after the food has been cleared, so the waitress made sure we knew when we were expected to leave before seating us.

After tasting the pies at La Locanda, we understood the restaurant’s popularity. On the way out the door, we nabbed a table for the following Friday.

Where do I sit?

Few eateries in Europe have greeters or host stands making it awkward to know the best place to sit.

For starters, choose an appropriately sized table. Most restaurants are small so a party of two should choose a two-top over a larger table to allow the restaurant to maximize their seating. If you opt for a space that’s more than you need, be prepared for the server to break up the tables or for others to join you. On the other hand, if you go for a small table and the restaurant isn’t busy, the staff will likely invite you to a place with more room to spread out.

Why are there different table setups?

Some restaurants offer different seating depending on the type of service. In Spain, tables near the counter are for customers ordering drinks and tapas from the bar. Near the back are tables reserved for full-service meals. If you’re only looking for a coffee or glass of wine, choose a high-top near the bar. Anything else is for people ordering hot plates.

When in doubt, note the table setup. At our favorite spot in the Piazza del Duomo in Syracuse, Sicily, the combination casual café and sit-down restaurant used placemats and silverware to distinguish tables for meals from those for coffee and ice cream where the tabletops sat bare except for napkin dispensers.

In some places the price changes depending on whether you sit or stand. In traditional cafés and bars across Portugal, the lowest price is paid by customers standing at the counter. Order the same coffee at a table, and the price increases to cover service. In highly trafficked areas, a third tier exists with higher prices charged for sitting on the terrace.

If you’re still uncertain, let a waiter know what you plan to order – especially if you’re just popping in for a glass of wine at lunchtime. This allows the café to find a seat that works best for them. Often that will be near a window because nothing attracts people like the sight of tourists enjoying a drink or snack.

Why is my waiter ignoring me?

One friend of ours can’t abide waiting in a restaurant. If he isn’t greeted immediately, he turns and walks out. While there may be an expectation of prompt service in some cultures, across the Continent there’s often a delay between sitting, getting menus and ordering. More importantly, people here don’t go out for fast-paced meals. They linger and enjoy.

The opposite is true for friendly chit-chat. Instead of being greeted with, “Hi, I’m Kathy, and I’ll be taking care of you this evening,” your European waiter won’t ask how you’re doing or engage in small talk. At busy cafés, the waiter may even pass your table several times without acknowledging you. It’s not rude. It’s just the way they take care of customers – individually and without rushing. If you want to fit in, ignore him back because that’s what locals do.

When a server finally comes to the table, the first encounter will often be little more than the dropping off of menus. If you know what you want to drink, it’s a good idea to get that out of the way since it ensures someone will be back soon with your water or coffee. Finally, don’t expect a server to hover nearby for your order. They look for visual cues instead, like a closed menu or table that appears relaxed and prepared to make their selections.

What if I’m in a hurry?

If you only have a few minutes before the tour departs or a timed ticket to the museum, let the server know before sitting down.

At our favorite kebap restaurant in Istanbul, Robie and I watched a woman stroll up with her luggage. She explained that she only had five minutes before her taxi was scheduled to whisk her to the airport. Was that enough time to order, she wondered. The server said he could have a to-go wrap ready in time. Then he handed her a bag just as her cab pulled up to the curb.

How do I know if I’m getting bad service?

Having a slower standard of service doesn’t mean putting up with incompetence, and it helps to recognize the difference.

One morning at our regular coffee shop in Palermo, Sicily, Robie and I sat down only to see a table nearby anxiously talking to the waitress. A few minutes later another group got up to cancel half their order. When a third couple quietly left after they were unable to get the server’s attention, we knew something was wrong in the coffeehouse.

Maybe someone had called in sick, or the espresso machine was on the fritz. The slow service certainly wasn’t helped when a family of five walked in and forced the lone barista to stop making coffee and scoop ice cream for each of them.

Half an hour later, Robie and I quietly left. There was no need to tell the staff there was a problem. Several people already had.

Why are appetizers listed as entrées?

Coming from the French word for “entrance,” across the Continent, entrée means a starter, not the main course as it does in the US. If you’re confused, just remember that menus in Europe are largely laid out the same way with starters at the top or left. Main meals will be listed further down the page.

Should I order appetizers first and the main course later?

In Europe, servers rarely return to ask if everything’s okay. Unless you’re seated in a high traffic area or within sight of the bar, you may not see someone on staff for long stretches at a time. It doesn’t mean they don’t care. It does mean no one’s circling back to see if you want more food.

At sprawling outdoor cafés across Europe, waiters work at the same restaurant for years. They know the menu and speak several languages, so they’re the ones you want handling your order. Request food from the guy who just dropped off your appetizer or is cleaning the next table, and you might be surprised by what you get. Busboys and food runners likely don’t know the dishes and rarely speak English.

So, go ahead and order everything at once. Then instead of worrying about whether the salad will come before the main or if all the entrées arrive together, let the kitchen dictate the flow. The meal may feel less structured, but sharing plates as they come is half the fun. After all, pasta shouldn’t sit around getting cold, and pizza tastes best straight from the oven.

How do I get coffee or dessert?

Across Europe lingering at the table after the food has been removed is encouraged. Glasses get added and chairs rearranged as new friends stop by the table to say hello.

Since even the busboy knows how to ask if you want dessert or coffee, it shouldn’t be difficult to get an after-dinner menu when they come to clear the plates. But our advice is to skip the restaurant’s offerings and find a local sweet shop.

In Spain they’re known as pastelerías, in France, patisseries. Across Italy, shops on the street are dedicated to gelato and cannoli. In Turkey, window casings are filled with flaky concoctions dripping in honey. In Greece they’re stuffed with tangy cheese and drizzled with orange syrup. These tiny workshops – often little more than take-away counters – offer more choices, better flavor and lower prices than any restaurant dessert cart.

If my server disappears, how do I get the bill?

This feels similar to being ignored. Just remember, in Europe it’s impolite to present a check before it’s requested since doing so makes diners feel rushed.

If you can’t find your server when you’re ready to leave, simply walk to the bar or counter inside. The manager may need your table number (it’s okay to point) or tell him what you ordered. Someone will figure it out quickly enough.

How much should I tip?

In Europe tipping isn’t the norm. Servers make a living wage, and their livelihood isn’t dependent on fickle diners or negatively affected by a meltdown in the kitchen. While leaving small change is polite, it’s never mandatory.

When you receive the bill, check it for a service fee or cover charge. Both will be listed on the menu, but if you miss it, the charge could come as a surprise. Then know that two are not interchangeable. A service fee is for the staff while a cover charge goes toward linens and table settings, not service.

When it comes to tipping, it’s normal to leave a bit of change, but be careful about rewarding anyone preying on American sensibilities. At a pizza restaurant in Palermo, Sicily, we sat at a communal table with locals who warned us about the waiter’s well-established treatment of foreigners. When our friends departed without leaving a tip, the server hugged them goodbye. As he turned with our bill, he shoved a silver tray under our nose and explained it was for his tip.

Though we knew the €2 per person cover charge wasn’t intended for the service, we couldn’t condone his rude behavior. Instead, we found another place to eat pizza in Palermo.

How do I pay?

Once you’ve gotten the bill, let the server know whether you plan to pay by cash or card. While it’s customary to hand over your credit card in the States, in Europe the card never leaves your possession. You either pay by going to the bar or when someone comes to your table with a card reader.

It’s important to remember that European machines don’t allow you to add money for a tip, so carrying a few small bills or coins will come in handy. Occasionally a waiter might target out-of-towners by suggesting payment in cash to ensure there’s a little change leftover for him. Unless the internet’s down or the place doesn’t accept credit cards, feel free to pay however you want. We kindly but firmly tell the server we want to pay by card and plan to leave a cash tip. What we don’t mention is that the amount depends on how graciously he complies.

Finally, don’t take any of it too seriously

If you eat out often enough, even the most well-traveled diners will make mistakes. Sooner or later, the law of averages catches up to you and things go awry. Over the years we’ve sat down in restaurants that were closing, received dishes different from the ones we ordered, overtipped and had more than a few miscommunications with the busboy. That’s just part of the charm of travel.

Not every dining experience will go smoothly, so embrace the awkwardness and learn to laugh at it. Your server certainly will. Plus, who knows? You might just come home with a great story to tell at the next company Christmas party. 

Finally, remember that eating out in Europe is an adventure, one that enhances the travel experience. So embrace the slower pace, soak in the ambiance and linger a while. In the end you may never want to go back to rushed, fast-paced dining again.